Excitement can still need structure
A friendly dog can still become frustrated, over-aroused, and hard to handle if every dog means rushing in or pulling hard.
If your dog spots another dog and suddenly pulls, surges, stares, barks, or cannot hear you, this page will help you work out what might be going on.
Some dogs pull towards other dogs because they are excited. Some are frustrated because the lead stops them getting there. Some are worried and trying to create space. From the outside, all of these can look like a dog dragging you towards another dog.
Please rest assured, this does not mean you have a bad dog or that you have failed them. It means your dog is communicating something loudly on the lead, and the first step is understanding what that something is.
The useful question is not only "how do I stop the pulling?" It is "why is my dog pulling in that moment, and what would help them make a better choice?"
Before the lunge
Reading that earlier moment can stop walks becoming a repeated pattern of tension, dragging, barking, and recovery. You are looking for the moment before the red mist, not just the big reaction at the end.
A dog who desperately wants to say hello may pull hard. A dog who is worried may also pull hard. A dog who has learned that dogs mean chaos may go from zero to frantic very quickly.
That is why generic loose lead advice can fall flat when other dogs are involved. The pulling is not happening in a quiet training bubble. It is happening in a moment your dog finds emotionally difficult.
This is workable, but it usually needs calmer setups rather than waiting for your dog to cope with the same hard pass-by again and again.
A friendly dog can still become frustrated, over-aroused, and hard to handle if every dog means rushing in or pulling hard.
The lead can make social frustration worse because your dog can see the other dog but cannot move freely or choose space.
Some worried dogs pull, bark, and lunge because they are trying to get more distance, not because they want a fight. Understanding that can make the whole walk feel less personal.
Jennie will usually look at distance, route choice, lead tension, recovery time, reward timing, and what your dog is doing before the pulling turns into a bigger reaction.
The aim is not to force your dog past other dogs. It is to help them cope, think, and recover more easily.
You should leave with clear next steps, not a list of things to feel guilty about.
If your dog pulls towards another dog, start with making the situation easier rather than trying to win a battle on the lead.
The calmer you can make the setup, the more chance your dog has to notice you, take food, move away, or offer a small body shake afterwards.
If barking or lunging is already part of the picture, read the reactive dog on lead guide as well.
Assisted lead walks can help when the difficult bit happens outdoors and you need coaching in the actual places where your dog struggles.
See assisted lead walksUse this if the main issue is pulling, rushing, zig-zagging, and lead tension across the whole walk.
Use this if pulling is paired with barking, lunging, freezing, or big reactions around other dogs.
Use this if the clearest problem is sudden lunging or barking when dogs appear.
Useful when you want support on real walks, with the handling, spacing, and timing coached in the moment.
Best if the walking problem sits inside a wider pattern of anxiety, frustration, barking, or home-life stress.
If you are unsure whether this is training, frustration, or reactivity, Jennie can help you decide.
Not always. Pulling can come from excitement, frustration, worry, or a mix of all three. If your dog also barks, lunges, freezes, or cannot recover, it may be worth treating it as a behaviour issue rather than simple pulling.
Usually not as the default answer. If pulling always leads to greetings, the pulling can become stronger. It is better to teach calmer choices and only allow greetings when both dogs are relaxed and it is appropriate.
Sometimes. If the pulling is mostly a lead-skills issue, loose lead support may be enough. If the pulling is driven by frustration, fear, or reactivity, behaviour-aware walk coaching is usually more effective.
Yes. Assisted lead walks are designed for dogs whose struggles show up outdoors. Jennie can help with spacing, route choice, reward timing, and what to do before your dog goes over threshold.